ESTONIA'S capital remains one of Europe's most beguiling walled cities,
complete with cobbled streets, looming spires and brooding battlements.
HISTORIC BUILDINGS
Town walls
More than a mile of the original city wall remains, showcasing medieval fortifications and 26 defensive towers.
The Patkul lookout offers fairytale views, while at Suur-Kloostri you'll see the best-preserved section of the Lower Town walls. Take the Tallinn Old Town Walking Tour, an audioguide you can download or pick up from the tourist office.
Town Hall
Rising over the Old Town's main square, this is the only surviving Gothic town hall in northern Europe. Built between 1371 and 1404, it was the seat of power in the medieval Lower Town. Old Thomas, Tallinn's symbolic guardsman, has been keeping watch from his perch atop Town Hall since 1530. You can find similar views by climbing the tower .
Toompea Castle
Toompea Castle is Estonia's traditional seat of power and the state flag flies from Pikk Hermann, the finest of the castle's surviving towers, which dates from 1371.
In the 18th century, the building underwent an extreme makeover at the hands of Russian empress Catherine the Great, converting it into the pink, Baroque-style palace that is now Estonia's parliament building. You can't go inside but a wander around the grounds provides decent photo opportunities.
MUSEUMS
Kiek in de Kok
One of Tallinn's most formidable cannon towers, its name is Low German for "Peep into the kitchen" - from the upper floors medieval voyeurs could peer into the houses below. Built around 1475, the tower barely survived the 16th-century Livonian War, and today houses a museum tracing the city's military history.
linnamuuseum.ee; Komandandi 2; closed Monday
City museum
Tallinn's City Museum is split over 10 sites and its main branch is set in a 14th-century merchant's house that retains some typically medieval features, including a lancet-arched portal.
The engrossing displays chart the city's development from its earliest years and are well laid out, with plenty of information in English.
The top floor presents an insightful portrait of life under Soviet rule.
linnamuuseum.ee; Vene 17; closed Tuesday
St Nicholas' Church Museum
This 13th-century Gothic church houses the Estonian Art Museum's collection of medieval religious art.
Its most famous work is Berndt Notke's 15th-century masterpiece Danse Macabre (Dance of Death). Other artefacts include altarpieces, tombstones and a chamber overflowing with silverware.
The acoustics are first rate and organ recitals are held most weekends.
nigulistemuuseum.ee; Niguliste 3; closed Monday and Tuesday
CHURCHES
Holy Spirit Church
The luminous blue-and-gold clock on the facade of this striking 14th-century Gothic church is the oldest in Tallinn, dating from 1684.
Inside there are exquisite woodcarvings and painted panels, including an altarpiece dating to 1483 and a 17th-century Baroque pulpit. The church hosts regular classical musical concerts.
eelk.ee; Puha Vaimu Kirik; closed Sunday for worship
St Catherine's Church and Cloister
The ruined St Catherine's was part of a Dominican monastery founded by Scandinavian monks in 1246, later torched by a mob of Lutherans in 1524.
Partially restored in 1954, the complex is today strewn with carved tombstones and includes the gloomy shell of the barren church and a peaceful cloister.
kloostri.ee; Vene 16; Open mid-May-Aug
Dome church
Estonia's oldest church was founded in 1233 or earlier by Danish conquerors. It stands on Toompea hill, with its fine views over the town and harbour. The exterior dates mainly from the 15th century, with the tower added in 1779. The building was a burial ground for the rich and the walls are decorated with the coats of arms of Estonia's noble families.
toomkirik.ee; Toom-Kooli 6; closed Monday
TALLINN ESSENTIALS
Transport
Tallinn airport is just 4km southeast of the Old Town; you can get a taxi (ask the driver in advance for the fare because they set their own rates - it should cost no more than Euro10 or $A14), take a shuttle bus (book in advance or go to the airport's service desk and expect to pay about $6) or get bus No.2 from bus stop No.1.
Tickets $2 from the driver, cheaper prepaid at a kiosk
WHERE TO STAY
- Old House Apartments is a special 14th-century merchant's house that's been split into eight beautifully furnished apartments, including a spacious two-bed with traces of a medieval painted ceiling.
oldhouse.ee; Rataskaevu 16
- Hotel Telegraaf is a former 19th-century telegraph station complete with spa, black-and-white decor, pretty courtyard and acclaimed restaurant. Superior rooms feature high ceilings and parquet floors.
www.telegraafhotel.com; Vene 9
- Three Sisters Hotel offers 5-star luxury within three lovingly refurbished 14th-century houses. Each room has a unique feature, such as a freestanding vintage bathtub or covered canopy beds.
threesistershotel.com; Pikk 71
THE KNOW-HOW
Historic feasts
Eat in (medieval peasant) style:
The Estonian diet relies on red meat, pork, chicken, sausage, cabbage and potatoes - and sour cream is served with almost everything. Fish such as herring or salmon appears smoked or salted as a starter.
Like blood? Most traditional Estonian restaurants serve verivorst (blood sausage), verileib (blood bread) and verikaekk (balls of blood rolled in flour and eggs with pig fat).
For a medieval-themed meal, head to Olde Hansa, where peasant-garbed servers labour beneath large plates of wild boar, elk and bear, and delicacies such as juniper cheese and forest mushroom soup. The chefs have done their research in producing historically authentic food.
Further reading
- Lonely Planet's Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania has plenty of information on Tallinn, including a walk around the Old Town. You can download the Estonia chapter at
- Pille Petersoo's blog gives a good insight into Estonian food.
- The acclaimed novel Purge by Sofi Oksanen weaves together Stalin's purges and modern-day people-trafficking (Atlantic Books).
Lonely Planet Traveller magazine
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