Eight centuries ago, Tallinn was a marketplace and harbor with a wooden fortress on Toompea hill.
Today, Tallinn retains its Medieval feel with what seems to be an almost intact Old Town surrounded by stone walls and guard towers containing stories of multiple conflicts and defensive actions of this strategic location. Located on the coast of the Baltic Sea, the Estonian capital has always been a prime prize for any conqueror -- seeing multiple occupations, most recently by the Soviets.
The picturesque and compact Old Town is divided into two main sections -- the Lower Town and Toompea hill. All of the area within the fairytale stone walls is pleasantly enjoyed on foot, strolling along cobblestone streets, peeking into hidden courtyards, trying to fit in the narrow pathways and, eventually, sitting down for an energy boost at one of the dozens of cozy cafes and restaurants, some of which have authentic Medieval cuisine and interiors.
Spotting Toompea hill is an easy task with the onion-shaped domes of Alexander Nevsky Cathedral and Pikk Hermann Tower of Toompea Castle dominating the landscape from afar. Climbing the way up can be done via either of the two lovely streets, called "Short" and "Long Leg" streets, lined with painters selling their artwork and musicians entertaining a crowd. Quite often the romantic, historic atmosphere can be interrupted by carloads of politicians and diplomats rushing to the top, where Estonian Parliament takes its seat.
Before enjoying the "District of Power," where Tallinn had its beginnings, the entrance through one of the centuries-old gates served as the start of a time-machine ride. I felt transformed at least five centuries back, with the streets breathing echoes of knights' horses and merchants' carts full of fish products. I could stop and take pictures of practically every building, restored or not, but having witnessed hundreds of historic years.
Walking along, the spires of churches offer another glimpse into the past contained within its cool walls. St. Olav's Church, dating back to 13th century, used to be the tallest building in the world with its 159-meter spire for 75 years starting in mid-16th century. The church burned down twice since then; it now has a 124-meter tower, and climbing it offers splendid views of Tallinn. The Town Hall Square is always full of action, just like in old times. Though today the main goods being traded are souvenirs, the Square still serves the same purpose as centuries ago.
If the living, open-air "museum" of Old Town is not enough, Tallinn offers many museums presenting all the clues and details to enhance the journey through time. Tallinn City, Estonian History, Maritime and Photographic Museums are all nearby, with many others just outside the Old Town walls.
When the temperatures are high, and the summer sun is shining high above, the sandy beaches on the Baltic Sea offer a relaxing escape from the city environment, while Kadriorg Park, built by Russian Emperor Peter the Great, offers pleasant strolls along carefully trimmed nature and cultural visits to the best Estonian art museum housed in an elaborate Baroque palace.
No words can do full justice to the atmosphere of Tallinn's historic Old Town. This environment needs to be experienced first-hand. A comfortable 4-hour bus ride from Riga, a 2-hour ferry ride from Helsinki, or a flight away, Tallinn is a jewel not to be missed.
Andrey Bilko
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