BY BEVERLY BEYETTE
* The turrets, the ancient city gates and the cobblestoned streets — these are the fairy tale images of Latvia, Estonia and Lithuania, known collectively as the Baltic States.
Since gaining independence in 1991, these northeastern European neighbors, occupied by the Germans during World War II and later forcibly annexed to the Soviet Union, have been bidding to become big-time visitor destinations.
The capitals — Tallinn (Estonia), Riga (Latvia) and Vilnius (Lithuania) — have well-preserved old towns. Charming boutique hotels have opened; so have good restaurants that shy away from such regional specialties as jellied pork, blood sausage and groats with fried fatty meat, and cater increasingly to international tastes.
But like most fairy tales, this one has a dark side. Those picture-postcard images of the Baltics sometimes are crowded out of my memory by reminders of decades of oppression : a dank torture cell in the Museum of Genocide Victims in a former KGB prison in Vilnius. The Museum of Occupations in Tallinn. And the Museum of the Occupation of Latvia in a windowless black slash of a building adjacent to Riga's Town Hall Square.
As they move forward, the Baltics don't want the suffering and losses of the dark days to be forgotten. My visit last fall told me they shouldn't — and they won't.
I arrived in Tallinn after an overnight train journey from Moscow, and checked into the nearby Merchant's House Hotel, steps from Old Town Square, the heart of the old city.
I bought a ticket for Tallinn City Tour's hop-on, hop-off sightseeing excursion on a red double-decker bus. It has English audio and during the nearly two-hour ride, proved a good way to see the green suburbs and the forgettable modern city.
We drove to Kadriorg, a tony residential suburb where we glimpsed the Baroque summer palace of Peter the Great (now an art museum). And we passed the Song Festival Grounds, where every five years the Songfest — a national obsession since 1869 — attracts up to 35,000 singers in folk costume and 250,000 spectators. (The next one will be in 2009.)
Having seen as much of modern Tallinn as I needed to .......
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