Tallinn has been an
important port and Estonia's connection with the world since before recorded
history. Because of this, the city has not one, but two museums dedicated to the
sea. The Maritime Museum is
housed in Fat Margaret, an old cannon tower that once protected the harbor. It
has the usual assortment of old photos and gear, along with a very cool exhibit
on sunken ships.
The other museum is far more interactive. Housed in an old seaplane hanger
dating to World War I, Tallinn's Seaplane
Harbour Museum is filled with old ships and other maritime bric-a-brac.
Estonians seem to favor odd lighting in their museums. The
Bastion Tunnels have a weird combination of red, yellow, and purple lights.
At the Seaplane Harbor museum they seem to favor purple and blue. It gives the
place a spooky under-the-sea feel.
Dominating the exhibit is the Lembit, a submarine built in 1936 by the
English company Vickers and Armstrongs for the Estonian Navy. When Estonia fell
to the Soviet Union in 1940 it was incorporated into the Red Banner Baltic Fleet
of the Soviet Navy and saw action against the Axis powers. It managed to sink
two ships and damage another.
Climb aboard and you'll see an almost perfectly preserved submarine that was the cutting edge of technology of its time. You can visit the control room, periscope, radio room, torpedo tubes and cramped crewmen's bunks all pretty much as they were. It didn't feel too cramped to me until I read that it housed a crew of 32. Then I decided to enlist in the Army. Check out the gallery for some photos of this fascinating sub.
As you walk around your eyes will be drawn upward by the two giant rotating
propellers hanging from the ceiling. They're so big you might miss the seaplane
fitted with skis suspended nearby. A walkway takes you past other historic ships
and an extensive collection of mines, presumably defused.
This is a fully interactive museum with touchscreen displays to teach you more
about what you're seeing. You can also man an antiaircraft gun and see how good
you'd be defending Tallinn from an enemy air force. Then hop aboard a
reproduction Sopwith Camel and try out a flight simulator. While I managed to
save Tallinn from the bad guys, my flying skills showed that I should keep my
driving on the ground.
Once you're done with the indoor exhibits, head out back to visit the Suur Tõll,
an icebreaker built in 1914 that saw service for several decades, clearing the
Baltic Sea lanes during cold winters. Like with the Lembit, it's well
preserved and you can wander all over it. It seemed vast and luxurious compared
with the submarine. The officer's mess looked as big as a ballroom (it wasn't),
the quarters for the crew felt sumptuous (not!) and the engine room was like
some Industrial Revolution factory. It takes a pretty tough person to be a
sailor, and someone twice as tough to work in a submarine.
If you are at all interested in technology or the sea, don't miss this place.
Your kids will love it too. The museum has an excellent and reasonably priced
little restaurant overlooking the hanger in case you get hungry.
Sean McLachlan
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