This pinch-yourself perfect walled capital is the most intact medieval city in Europe. In November and December its snow-covered streets are crammed with Christmas stalls.
The smartest address in town is the Schlössle Hotel, a super-luxe retreat where everyone from Sting to Soros has stayed over the years. If your budget doesn't stretch to a stay, splash out on the best dinner in the city at the sublime Stenhaus restaurant.
- From €169 (schlossle-hotels.com/schlossle)
The chic Three Sisters hotel, in three adjacent town houses, is not for the shy and retiring. Think modern décor, hip music and a clientele to match.
- From €159 (threesistershotel.com)
For an incredible authentic Russian menu – including the best-ever blinis – visit the old-world Restaurant Nevskij (nevskij.ee)
Find the best cocktail list in town, and a cool jazz-loving clientele, at Basso (basso.ee)
In-the-know chocoholics fight for tables at the Chocolaterie Café in the tucked-away courtyard at Vene 6. The rum-and-raisin hot chocolate is not for the faint-hearted
Tallinn is a beer-drinker's paradise, but for a chicer brand of brew head to the much-loved Amsterdam Pub. Its stunning century-old wooden interior was shipped in from Holland in its entirety (Pärnu Mnt 16)
Zizi stocks a kaleidoscope of beautiful linens for the home (zizi.ee)
Be it ceramics, textiles or jewellery, the locals take their crafts very seriously. Wander through the picturesque artisan heartlands of Katarina Passage and the courtyard at Vene 6
Kumu, the Estonian art museum, is a stunning modern building. Don't just go for the architecture and fascinating displays (the sculpture room is superb): there is also a great café, plus top people-watching opportunities in the pretty surrounding park (ekm.ee)
There are countless beautiful medieval churches in the Old Town, but if you only visit one make it St Nicholas's Church, with its amazing altarpiece
In the run-up to Christmas there is a famous market in the main square selling food, decorations and toys
For stunning contemporary Estonian jewellery – think sculptural shapes in silver – visit A-galerii (agalerii.ee)
Return flights from London Gatwick to Tallinn start at £130 (estonian-air.com)